< Tasting Notes

Wines for June-uary
- June 2026

We’ve passed April showers. We picked those May flowers.

Welcome to June-uary!

Hello Diurnal Shift.

We humbly offer some playful juice for you to enjoy as we begin to dance around the idea of summer, simultaneously embracing long ass days.

Cheers!

(**NOTE - Links are embedded in each winemaker’s names to direct you to their respective websites. Know thy vintner!**)

KELLEY FOX 'Nerthus' NV (2025 Release) * Willamette Valley, Oregon
Kelley Fox left her PhD program in Biochemistry at Oregon State University to pursue winemaking full time in 2000, learning directly from Oregon's most respected practitioners rather than through textbooks or other regions. She worked at Torii Mor, Hamacher, and The Eyrie Vineyards, where she was deeply influenced by the late David Lett, the iconoclast who pioneered Oregon's wine industry in the 1960s. After ten years as co-winemaker at Scott Paul Wines, Fox founded Kelley Fox Wines in 2007 with her father, Gerson "Gus" Stearns, starting with just over 100 cases. The winery now produces around 3,000 cases annually from historic vineyards including Maresh, Weber, Canary Hill, Carter, Hyland, Freedom Hill, and Durant. Fox approaches winemaking with radical openness: she has no predetermined end result for each vintage, instead responding to the essence of fruit from each block, carrying the essence of the earth that bore it, along with the details of the year. What she loves most about Pinot Noir—its transparency—guides all her work.

Nerthus represents Fox's most audacious expression, an "illegal-to-classify" wine that defies categorization entirely. The 2025 release marks the wine's return after a pause in 2024, now made in an entirely new way. Where the previous Nerthus derived its color from traditional rosé fermentation, this version gets its hue from the addition of just 1% black raspberry wine, made from a fifth-generation farm nearby and also sold separately. The blend combines five distinct wines: Early Muscat, Grüner Veltliner, Chardonnay, and Pinot Blanc, with that crucial 1% black raspberry wine. Each component was fermented and aged separately before blending, with malolactic fermentation complete on all wines. The result is pale and peachy salmon-colored with brilliant transparency, showing peach and oyster shell minerality alongside hints of black raspberry notes. The wine is juicy, mouthwatering, and completely bone dry. In Kelley's words: a pale alpine-feeling wine with a touch of indigenous berry.

NERD ALERT!! - The classification anomaly makes Nerthus genuinely unique in American wine. Because it derives its color from added black raspberry wine rather than skin contact during fermentation, it cannot legally be called rosé. It lacks vintage designation and appellation claims entirely, existing in a category of its own. The five-wine blend approach channels historical field blending practices before modern viticulture established monoculture vineyards, but with intentional curation. Early Muscat and Grüner Veltliner bring aromatic lift, while Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc provide structure and mineral character. The 1% black raspberry wine acts almost like seasoning—a tiny addition that shifts the entire profile, proving that proportion and intention matter more than volume. Nerthus is named after a Germanic and Norse goddess associated with fertility, sacred groves, and the earth itself.

Grape(s) - 22% Early Muscat, 22% Grüner Veltliner, 20% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Blanc, 1% Black Raspberry Wine

Flavors - Peach, oyster shell minerality, black raspberry hints. Juicy and mouthwatering with brilliant transparency. Bone dry with delicate peachy salmon color. Five-piece symphony of fruit and stone.

Serving - The wine's delicate color and dry character make it perfect for warm-weather entertaining. Serve with ceviche, oysters, grilled fish, or any preparation where brightness and minerality enhance rather than compete. The black raspberry hints work beautifully with roasted stone fruits or light desserts featuring peach or apricot. A wine for sunset gatherings, backyard dinners, and moments requiring both elegance and approachability.

Album Pairing - GRIMES - ‘Visions’ - 2012 * Kelley Fox created something that cannot be classified, cannot be named, cannot fit into existing categories. Grimes made an album that defies categorization in exactly the same way: it's simultaneously futuristic and mythological, punk and ethereal, playful and serious. Both refuse to choose a lane. Nerthus blends five wines together with 1% black raspberry wine determining everything—a tiny unexpected addition that shifts the entire expression. Grimes samples medieval chant alongside synthesizers, folk traditions alongside electronic fury, creating a mythological futurism that shouldn't work but feels inevitable. The album's title itself suggests visions—something seen but not fully understood, mythology meeting technology. Nerthus is named after a Norse goddess, and there's something goddess-like about Grimes' presence: fierce, otherworldly, completely unconcerned with fitting expectations. Both the wine and album exist in their own category. Both prove that blending disparate elements creates something more interesting than purity ever could. Both are playful despite their sophistication. Grimes' punk energy and Visions' refusal to be tamed parallels the wine's elegant-yet-fearless character. Neither apologizes for what it is.

SYLVAIN BOCK 'Justine Goutte' 2023 * Alba-la-Romaine, Ardèche, France
Sylvain Bock spent ten years working in wineries worldwide before founding his estate in 2010, apprenticing under some of the Rhône's greatest winemakers including Yves Cuilleron, Pierre Gaillard, Francois Villard, Jean-Michel Stephan, and Gérald Oustric. He also worked in Bordeaux and New Zealand before becoming vineyard manager of the viticultural school in Aubenas. Growing up in the Northern Rhône shaped his instinct for wines that express place without manipulation. He now leases vineyards formerly cultivated by Oustric, an Ardèche legend, in a region where wine production dates back to Antiquity. Bock's personality—pensive and introspective yet prone to sudden bursts of enthusiasm—mirrors his wines. He experiments constantly through co-ferments and delayed releases if certain barrels take unexpected detours. His position at the "northern limit of the South" influences every decision: extracting delicate flower aromas from varieties at their climatic edge, choosing resilient grapes like Chardonnay as climate change reshapes the winemaking world.

Justine Goutte represents a new cuvée from vines just outside Alba-la-Romaine, blending grapes in a 2/3 Syrah to 1/3 Grenache Noir ratio. Both varieties underwent short carbonic maceration separately before combining, a technique that preserves vibrancy and aromatic lift. In an effort to make a lighter, juicier style red, Bock chose to bottle only the free-run juice from both tanks, leaving behind the pressed wine. The result is remarkably light at around 10.5% ABV, yet maintains the classic character of its varieties: the Syrah's black olive and rustic dark fruit nose meets the Grenache's bright acidity and light tannin dusting. The vineyard sits on a mosaic of clay-limestone and basaltic soils, ancient terroirs where the Ardèche's volcanic and marine history shapes every bottle. The name Justine Goutte translates roughly to "just a drop"—fitting for a wine that drinks like it was made for impromptu aperitifs with friends, light enough to vanish, serious enough to linger.

NERD ALERT!! - Carbonic maceration represents one of natural winemaking's most effective techniques for preserving aromatic lift while softening tannins. Whole grapes ferment intracellularly before being pressed, creating wines that express fruit character rather than extraction. Ardèche's unique position—neither quite north nor south—gives its wines distinctive character. The clay-limestone and basalt soils create wines with pronounced mineral character and savory elements. Bock's choice to bottle only free-run juice shows his commitment to minimal extraction; the pressed wine contains greater tannin concentration and would have created a heavier wine. Working without sulfur and using native yeasts, Bock trusts that clean fruit and careful vineyard work provide the stability most winemakers achieve through chemical intervention.

Grape(s) - 67% Syrah, 33% Grenache Noir

Flavors - Black olive, rustic dark fruits, bright acidity, light tannin. Light ruby color with juicy, drinkable character. Grenache's tartness balancing Syrah's structure.

Serving - This wine's light alcohol and bright acidity make it extraordinarily aperitif-friendly. Serve lightly chilled with cured meats, olives, goat cheese, or simply on its own before dinner. The black olive notes pair naturally with Mediterranean preparations, while the acidity cuts through rich cheeses. Perfect for casual gatherings where you want wine that disappears rather than demands attention.

Album Pairing - BON IVER – ‘For Emma Forever Ago’ - 2007 * Justin Vernon recorded this album alone in a cabin, creating something intimate from isolation. The songs build slowly from sparse guitar to textured arrangements, rewarding patience with emotional depth. Justine Goutte follows a similar philosophy: it's light and approachable on first pour, yet reveals layers through patient attention. Both are about stripping away everything unnecessary and letting what remains speak clearly. The album's title references someone named Emma—and Sylvain Bock's Justine Goutte lives in the same spirit of intimate personal connection, "just a drop" meant for moments with people you love. Vernon's vulnerable approach to songwriting mirrors Bock's vulnerability in making such a light wine without apology or excess. Both prove that delicacy requires courage. The album's sparse arrangements build gradually into surprising richness, just as this wine reveals complexity beneath its approachable surface. Both are about invitation rather than declaration—they ask you to lean in, to listen carefully, to find beauty in restraint. There's something cabin-like about sharing a bottle of Justine Goutte with friends: intimate, warm, unpretentious. Vernon's cabin recordings and Bock's "just a drop" philosophy both celebrate what happens when you stop trying to impress and start trying to connect.

FLORÈZ ‘Moonmilk’ Chardonnay 2021 * Santa Cruz Mountains, California
James Jelks grew up in the Santa Cruz region and studied winemaking at UC Davis before spending a decade working in wineries around the world. In 2017, he returned home to launch Florèz Wines, determined to make wines exactly how he wanted rather than following trends or conventional wisdom. His label designs feature Japanese-style woodcuts created by his friend and tattoo artist Drew Nelson. Jelks remains a devoted Chardonnay advocate in a natural wine world that often chases "the next shiniest thing," saying he considers it a privilege to work with this noble variety. His early wine education focused heavily on Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, those classic grapes that reward obsessive attention. He farms some vineyards himself using dry farming and no-till methods, while sourcing from organic and sustainable growers including his peer David Rothschild, an upcoming figure in natural California winemaking. His philosophy prioritizes purity and authenticity, using native yeasts and minimal additives—just a touch of sulfur at bottling.

This Moonmilk comes from a single vineyard that Jelks and his team tend themselves: dry farmed, organic, no till. The fruit was hand-picked and immediately direct pressed using a lengthy, gentle press cycle. Fermentation occurred in neutral French oak with native yeasts, then the barrels were topped and left undisturbed, sur lie for ten months. In a respectful nod to Burgundian tradition, roughly 10% new low-toast oak was used to provide microoxygenation and enhance aging potential. The wine was racked once before bottling without fining or filtering, using minimal sulfites. The result tastes nothing like stereotypical buttery California Chardonnay. Instead, it presents a dairy-like quality—think tangy plain yogurt—alongside aromas of Meyer lemon, pear, brioche, and beeswax. The palate shows sour pineapple and sweet sage notes, supple and delicate without new oak influence. It's light and nimble with creaminess balanced by bright acidity.

NERD ALERT!! - Direct pressing—pressing fruit whole without destemming or crushing—preserves the juice's purity and reduces oxidation exposure. Gentle press cycles over longer periods extract juice without capturing harsh tannins from seeds and stems. The dairy aromatics that define Moonmilk likely come from the wine's extended sur lie aging; yeast cells breaking down contribute compounds that create yogurt-like aromas. Jelks's choice to use minimal new oak preserves the vineyard's character rather than imposing oak influence. The 2021 vintage was picked earlier than typical, preserving natural acidity crucial for wines made in this restrained style. Chardonnay's flexibility as a grape—its responsiveness to how you choose to make it—means the difference between California bombast and this elegant expression comes entirely from winemaking choices, not the variety itself.

Grape(s) - 100% Chardonnay

Flavors - Dairy-like quality resembling tangy yogurt. Aromas of Meyer lemon, pear, brioche, beeswax. Flavors of sour pineapple and sweet sage. Elegant, supple, delicate. Light, nimble, creamy with bright acidity.

Serving - The wine's delicate profile and bright acidity work beautifully with roasted chicken, fish, white sauces, and braised vegetables. The sour pineapple and sage notes suggest herb-heavy preparations, while the creaminess handles richer sauces. Try it with seasonal preparations that emphasize vegetables and light proteins rather than heavy reduction. The wine's nimbleness makes it surprisingly food-flexible despite its apparent delicacy.

** AUDIOPHILE LP OF THE MONTH CLUB VINYL**

Album Pairing - ANGEL OLSEN – ‘Big Time’- 2022 * James Jelks spent a decade traveling the world working in wineries before returning home to Santa Cruz to craft wines exactly as he envisioned, rejecting trends and conventional California Chardonnay in favor of authentic expression. Angel Olsen recorded Big Time just weeks after losing both parents, emerging from a decade of exploring grandiose orchestral arrangements (All Mirrors) to strip everything down to country and Americana roots. Both artists made bold decisions to return home and reveal their true selves rather than conform to expectations. The album opens with "All The Good Times" and flows through themes of new love and profound loss simultaneously, joy and grief heightening and complicating each other. Jelks's Moonmilk refuses buttery stereotypes in favor of yogurt tanginess and sour pineapple—unconventional choices that reveal character rather than hide it. Both the wine and album are quiet yet emotionally devastating, light yet carrying profound weight. Olsen sings about vulnerability in loving stronger than expected, deserving love, not knowing if you can accept being loved. Jelks pours that same vulnerability into a Chardonnay that asks you to accept its delicate nature without demanding oak influence or manipulation. The dairy aromatics in Moonmilk echo the stripped-down authenticity in every country twang on Big Time. Both come from artists returning to what they love most after years of exploration, embracing simplicity as the truest expression of complexity. Neither apologizes for what they are. Both prove that sometimes coming home means finally becoming yourself.

KITZKE FAMILY VINEYARD Nebbiolo 2018 * Horse Heaven Hills, Columbia Valley, Washington
Seth Kitzke is the winemaker and co-owner of Kitzke Cellars alongside his wife Audrey. His parents, Vickie and Paul Kitzke, founded the winery in 2005 after transforming orchards they'd been farming since the 1970s into vineyards on Candy Mountain near Richland, Washington. Seth helped his parents plant these vines on Candy Mountain, a dusty ridge between Red Mountain and Richland that's gaining recognition for quality grape-growing. A graduate of the Northwest Wine Academy program at South Seattle College, he previously worked for K Vintners under respected winemaker Brennon Leighton before taking over family winemaking. Seth is a rising star in the Washington wine industry—a true winegrower involved 100% with everything from vines to bottle. His philosophy centers on terroir-driven expression using only natural yeasts, no proteins or tannin additives, no color concentrates. He approaches winemaking as a living practice, making daily vineyard decisions based on what the vintage and land are giving him. He's also co-founder with Audrey of Upsidedown Wine, exploring Rhône varieties and experimental approaches alongside the Kitzke Cellars tradition.

After spending a decade searching for the ideal site, Kitzke found his Nebbiolo home in the Horse Heaven Hills at 1,100 feet elevation on stoney cobble soils. The vines benefit from cool nights and protection from extreme heat, essential for this finicky Italian grape. Made in traditional Barolo methods, the wine spends 40 to 45 days on the skins before being pressed and finishing native malolactic fermentation. The grapes are farmed without herbicides and with meticulous attention to detail. In the cellar, Seth practices complete transparency: native yeasts from the vineyard do the fermenting, the wine is left undisturbed, and no manipulation occurs. Nebbiolo is notoriously difficult to grow and temperamental in the cellar—it prefers cooler areas with warm-to-hot daytime temperatures and high luminosity. Washington's climate proves ideal. Some say Nebbiolo is the most difficult wine grape to work with anywhere, yet the rewards justify the effort. The wine emerges balanced, acid-driven, showing light ruby color, pie fruit flavors, and a hint of pepper.

NERD ALERT!! - Nebbiolo traces to the 13th century in Piedmont's northwest Italy, creating the world's greatest wines according to ampelographers—Barolo and Barbaresco. Barolo, the "king of wines," emphasizes fuller body and structure, while Barbaresco, the "queen," highlights brightness and elegant approachability. Both demand cool ripening and old-vine complexity. Washington Nebbiolo remains genuinely rare—fewer than 30 acres planted statewide and fewer than 25 wineries producing it. The variety's thin skins pack significant tannin, making cool-climate ripening essential to balance power with elegance. Kitzke's traditional Barolo approach—extended skin contact, native fermentation, natural aging—suits Washington's cool mountain sites perfectly. The Horse Heaven Hills' stoney soils provide excellent drainage and mineral reflection. Nebbiolo's high acidity and aromatic power make it supremely food-friendly and age-worthy, though its austerity in youth intimidates many drinkers. Patience rewards those who wait.

Grape(s) - 100% Nebbiolo

Flavors - Light ruby color. Pie fruit flavors with hint of pepper. Balanced, acid-driven structure. Elegant despite cool climate ripening. Aromatic lift from limestone and cool nights.

Serving - The wine's acid-driven structure and aromatic character pair beautifully with Italian cuisine, particularly chicken parmigiana or other herb-forward preparations. Mushroom dishes, roasted game, aged cheeses, and preparations with umami-rich elements complement the wine's savory complexity. The wine's elegance prevents it from overwhelming lighter preparations while its structure handles rich sauces. Try it at room temperature to fully express its aromatic potential.

Album Pairing - D’ANGELO – ‘Voodoo’ - 2000 * Nebbiolo demands mastery. D'Angelo's Voodoo is funk as mastery—virtuosic musicianship expressed through groove, technical complexity hidden beneath soulful swagger. Both require patience to fully appreciate. Both reveal their complexity gradually rather than announcing it upfront. D'Angelo recorded Voodoo in the shadow of his massive success, taking years to perfect arrangements and performances. The album earned cult respect through its refusal to follow trends or make obvious moves. Seth Kitzke's pursuit of Nebbiolo in Washington follows the same arc: a difficult grape that most would abandon, pursued with obsessive attention until it yields mastery. The funk and soul in Voodoo carries darkness beneath its grooves—it's music that can hurt you while making you move. Nebbiolo carries similar duality: it's elegant yet austere, approachable yet demanding. Both are dark soul expressions. D'Angelo's album sits at 2000, a threshold moment where everything changed; Kitzke's Nebbiolo comes from vines that transformed under patient, obsessive care. Both prove that technical mastery isn't sterile—it can be funky, soulful, deeply felt. The album's complex arrangements mirror the wine's layered terroir expression. Neither compromises on what it is. Both reward those willing to listen carefully, to feel deeply, to accept that mastery sometimes means accepting pain and power together. Angel Olsen's introspection and Bon Iver's intimacy require this month's energy shift: D'Angelo's funky mastery and Nebbiolo's cool-climate intensity provide that groove without sacrificing depth.

REMINDERS

• To celebrate our valued club members we offer 20% off all food ordered on the day you pick-up. 

• If you can not pick up on the pick up dates please contact mckay@barmiriam.com and we will hold your allotment offsite and can arrange for a future pick up.

• Email mckay@barmiriam.com to buy more single bottles or a case with special club pricing.

• Queen Anne Bottle Shop is open Tuesday-Saturday from 3:00pm — 8:00pm.

• Wine pairs best with friends. Tell your friends.